Dominica Rice-Cisneros was 12 years old when she had a revelation. During dinner at a friend’s house, she sat around the family table watching each member receive a bowl of hot pozole. It wasn’t her first time eating the traditional Mexican stew, but she was stunned when a bowl with clear broth was placed before her.
“I was just like, ‘Oh my God,’ I didn’t even know that you were allowed to make pozole that wasn’t red,” recalled Rice-Cisneros, chef-owner of Oakland’s Bombera restaurant. “It just opened my eyes.”